Ask Alice

Do treatments that target and rejuvenate collagen also melt fat?

Hi, great question. The short answer is that energy-based treatments that use, say, ultrasound or radiofrequency energy can do this, if the energy that is meant to be directed at the collagen-layer in the skin is aimed instead into the fat that lies underneath the skin. Take a look at this article for more detail on the way that RF needling can in some circumstances, melt fat – which is great if this is done deliberately because you want fat reduction in the face, but not so good if it happens by accident.

The key thing is to find a practitioner who has enough expertise to use the treatment appropriately for your face and skin, so that you get the results that you want – and not the ones that you don’t.

Which treatment is best for hyperpigmentation due to sun damage? IPL or chemical peel? I live in Barbados and that’s all that’s available here. Thanks!!

Hi, I’d find the most experienced dermatologist or other cosmetic physician on the island and ask for their advice – and also plan carefully how, if you go ahead with treatment, you are going to protect your treated skin from the sun. In the UK, it’s best to do these things in the winter; you will have to commit to buckets of SPF 50 and a hat afterwards to minimise further pigmentation developing.

Dear Alice, thanks again for an always fantastic information guide. I finally made of my mind and decided to have toxin, got an appointment and went to the consultation. It’s a great but.. a little voice inside is still a little nervous, especially since most of my deeper set wrinkles are over and above my eyebrows. I’m worried that either my eye lid will “fall” or look too artificial lifted.. any good advice ? And of course any good advice for first time toxin? Do and don’t? Thanks 🙏

Hi, that’s completely understandable to be anxious ahead of trying any tweakment. Have you discussed these particular concerns with your practitioner? If you have, I hope they would have reassured you that they have enough skill and experience to place the toxin in just the right places so that it will soften your wrinkles without wiping them out, and without making your brows drop. Also, first time, it’s good idea to ask for a really light dose, just enough to give you an idea of what the treatment can do. It won’t last as long as a regular dose, but if for any reason you don’t like the results, then you aren’t stuck with it for so long. See if the information on this section about wrinkle-relaxing toxins helps.

Can I ask what you think of the Skin Laundry company, its memberships and in particular its Ultra Duo facial? Many thanks

Hi, Skin Laundry offers some great treatments, though I haven’t tried any of them for a while. I can’t comment on its membership offers or the Ultra Duo – but I know the company uses top-quality devices and their therapists are well-trained.

I wonder what your thoughts are on Neofound please?

Hi, it looks like a new kind of mesotherapy product ie an injectable for improving the condition of the skin, which is different to injectable moisturiser treatments. I haven’t seen any data about how well it works and how effective it is.

I’m 66yrs old, I have never really had a good skincare regime, and enjoyed the sun with no SPF creams on various occasions. However I am now committed to a good skin care regime and 50spf cream. I have recently had toxin which is fab and am now considering facial filler to my mid face, am I too old?

Hello, can I first say it’s brilliant that you have committed to a good skincare range and SPF, it will make all the difference to your skin going forward, and please know that you are NEVER too old to benefit from great skincare, advanced facials and tweakments, and don’t let anyone tell you that you are! If you like and trust the practitioner who is doing your toxin, ask them what they would suggest by way of fillers.

Should I allow an aesthetician to inject hyaluronic gel filler to a previously bruised area?

Nnngh, if your aesthetician has any sense I hope they won’t be injecting anything into a bruise!

What are your thoughts on the Skin Laundry and in particular their Ultra Duo facial? Thanks

I haven’t tried the Ultra Duo but Skin Laundry is a great brand and they use great devices and train their aestheticians well, so I’d say it’s well worth a try.

What are your views on the Lyma laser. Is it really medical grade?

No, it does not have medical certificaton. I have tried the Lyma ‘laser’ but I’m not a fan – I used it every night for months on end in spring 2021 (on one side of one wrinkle on my neck, and on the knuckles of my left hand, as advised by the brand founder,) without getting any results.

My laser-manufacturer acquaintances laugh at it when I ask them what they think of its supposed powers of rejuvenation. Why?

‘Look, this isn’t competition to us,’ said one. ‘Laser?’ laughed another. ‘That’s more of a laser pointer.’

The Lyma makes enormous claims, claiming the sort of results that it normally takes several rounds of in-clinic treatment to achieve, and has the flimsiest scientific backup  – and despite making these claims the company hasn’t seen fit to put the product through a single clinical trial or comparison with other devices.

It has been brilliantly and stylishly marketed and it has persuaded a lot of journalists who should have asked a few more questions to repeat its extravagant marketing claims. What should they have asked? How can a device the size of a torch with a rechargeable battery generate enough power to do what it says it does? Or how can any light which is allegedly strong enough to prompt healing deep within the skin be safe to use around the eyes/ shine directly in your eyes without protection?  Why do they suggest using an oil or cream with the product to give it ‘slip’, when any oil or cream will distort the light beam that’s reaching the skin?

For what it’s worth, if you are contemplating spending that much money, I know two brands that really will deliver. The Dermalux Flex works a treat and I know that because I gave it full road testing during lockdown #1 and got brilliant results. Plus it has a medical CE certification which means it can make medical claims to treat, for example, acne and heal wounds. The other is the range of home devices from Celluma, which come in various sizes and which are also medically certified to treat various skin conditions and have an immense amount of research behind them.

Polynucleotides – where could I have it done?

Hiya, TTG editor Georgia here. In a recent article, Alice mentioned a few TTG-registered practitioners who offer polynucleotide treatment including Dr Sarah Tonks, Professor Syed Haq and Professor Bob Khanna.

Any info on Clearlift laser? I want to know it’s comparable to skin needling for stimulating collagen. Many thanks.

Hiya, TTG editor Georgia here. This type of laser can absolutely get impressive collagen-stimulating results, but whether or not those results will be comparable to microneedling depends entirely on you – your face, your skin quality, what you want to achieve, how much downtime you’re willing to undertake and how many treatments you’ll commit to. The best bet is to find a practitioner who offers both and see which they recommend for you during a consultation.

I’m looking for a non-invasive treatment for the upper eyelids. Is Tixel an option, or plasma? Any info on plasma eye lift?

Hiya TTG editor Georgia here. Tixel – yes, in the right hands it’s safe for use on the upper lids and gets brilliant results on hooded eyes. Plasma – we would advise you to be very careful – or even better, completely avoid – traditional plasma pen-type treatments and look into Neogen nitrogen plasma instead. It’s a far more sophisticated, modern device that is much safer. We’ve seen some excellent skin-tightening and brow-lifting results on the upper lids. There will be various factors to consider when deciding which is right for you, so have a consultation with a couple of practitioners to find out.

Hi Alice! I have the most dire under-eye folds and wrinkles which age me by about ten years (I’ve just turned 40). I’ve had one disastrous experience with tear trough fillers – since dissolved – but I don’t know what to turn to next to address them. I’ve come across all sorts of options, from Ultherapy and Plexr to Morpheus8 and blepharoplasty. I know the area under the eyes is very fragile and individual but the folds make me really self-conscious so I’d love your thoughts. I worry that even if I see a specialist practitioner, they’ll recommend whichever treatment they offer even if something else may be better. Thank you!

Hiya, TTG editor Georgia here. It might be worth booking a consultation with an oculoplastic surgeon who also performs non-invasive eye treatments because if this is really bothering you and you’ve already tried filler (and paid out again to have it dissolved), you might decide to invest in lower bleph surgery as it’s the most permanent solution and will ultimately give better results than anything non-surgical. Having said that, RF needling like Morpheus8 (there are many other devices that have their own merits) can be used right up to under the eyes and can work really well to tighten the area. There are also some new polynucleotide skin boosters for the under-eyes which will help smooth those folds and wrinkles and generally improve the look of the area.

Hi! Can you have Profhilo one month after Belotero Revive? I didn’t notice any improvements after Revive so wanted to switch back to Profhilo. Or is it better to carry out the 3 treatments of Revive? Thanks so much.

Hiya, TTG editor Georgia here. If you’ve only had one of the three recommended sessions in a course of Belotero Revive then that’s probably why you haven’t seen any results yet. Finish the course, wait a bit and then assess.

Do you have any information on Viscoderm Hydrobooster?

This is a good HA-based injectable moisturiser if your face is showing the sort of lines that look etched into the skin on your forehead, or around your eyes or mouth. It has a nice, ‘stretchy’ consistency in the skin and is manufactured by IBSA Derma – the people behind Profhilo, so you can be sure of its safety and efficacy.


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